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neilcunninghamdotcom

Designer, film-maker. London, Oxford. Late to Instagram.

Farewell photographer Steve Schapiro who died last

Farewell photographer Steve Schapiro who died last week aged 87. His body of work, essentially photojournalism, is very impressive (have a Google). I was ten when I first saw this album cover at a friend’s house ( @franceskenward ) and it set me off on a love of Semitic and alternative beauty thereafter.

#steveschapiro
#mourning
#barbrastreisand
#thewaywewere
#1974

So very shocked and sad to hear that Maria Ewing i

So very shocked and sad to hear that Maria Ewing is dead today at just 71. Arguably no soprano will ever surpass her shattering performance as the unhinged, depraved Salome in her husband Peter Hall’s 1986 production at Covent Garden (their daughter is actress Rebecca Hall).

Richard Strauss’s Salome is based on Oscar Wilde’s play (1891) which is loosely based on the biblical tale; his version being more of a study in destructive obsession. The damaged spoilt Salome is furious at being spurned by John the Baptist and tells him that one way or another she intends to kiss him on the mouth – even if it means cutting off his head in order to do so. The opera shocked and revolted audiences upon its premiere in 1905 and was subsequently banned in London until 1907. Critics were outraged that Strauss seemed to take a morally neutral stance on the protagonist’s dreadful deed and furthermore incensed at her singing of her lust and regret to a severed head.

This production was also notorious for Maria’s Dance of the Seven Veils. While past dramatic sopranos actresses have ended what is essentially a tame striptease in a modest body stocking Ms Ewing offered us the authentic bush-to-the-wind nude finale (also sporting a slim perfectly toned body) thus setting a precedent that future sopranos probably wouldn’t thank her for.

I was thrilled to dress Maria for one of John Wilson’s first MGM musical tribute concerts at the Royal Festival Hall in 2003. We were initially looking at a few frocks but ended up with practically a different dress for every number. It was a nightmare for my seamstresses adjusting a dozen inner-corsets to allow for an expanding operatic diaphragm. I hope the Royal Opera House will allow a clip from their 1992 DVD. RIP beautiful Maria.

#mariaewing
#salome
#richardstrauss
#oscarwilde

When you buy yourself a lovely Christmas hat @hist

When you buy yourself a lovely Christmas hat @historyhit and it looks so much better on a friend…

#theregoesmyhat
#fredthegardener
#beardedgardener
#historyhit
#thehistoryguy
#crochetedvikinghat

Was reminded today that it was the anniversary of

Was reminded today that it was the anniversary of Eartha Kitt’s death on Christmas Day (thirteen years ago). She’s been on my mind the past few weeks as I saw her perform in my first Stephen Sondheim show, Follies (1987) at the Shaftesbury theatre. The West End hadn’t offered a production so lavish in years. The synopsis alone was enchanting: a group of ageing former Follies stars and their husbands meet up in their old theatre soon to be demolished, surrounded by the ghosts of their younger selves. Set over one evening, nostalgia turns to bitterness and the disappointments of their lives (Follies, geddit?) and there’s no happy ending. It was as if Woody Allen had written a musical play.

The icing on the cake for me however was witnessing Cat Woman herself Eartha purring her way through I’m Still Here dripping in gold bugle beads like a black Marlene Dietrich. Georgina Howell in the Daily Mail described the audience’s astonished silence after she’d finished her one number before they rose to their feet for an eight minute standing ovation. Howell also noted a ‘mild depression that set in on both sides of the footlights’ afterwards. Eartha famously stopped the show like this every night.

I last saw her perform in London in 2007, the year before she died - she was still touring at 80, and as charismatic as ever. Your mum was one in a billion @kittshapiro photo #mikelaye

#earthakitt
#catwoman
#oneoff
#follies
#follies1987
#stephensondheim
#lordknowsatleastIwasthere

Lame Christmas light pics but Christmas Eve in the

Lame Christmas light pics but Christmas Eve in the West End is always very special. It’s usually less crowded, and calmer than you’d imagine (even more so this year); clear(ish) roads and black taxis in abundance. Last minute shopping has its downside though: dill and mustard sauce and pickled brussels sprouts curiously become must-have items. Many years of happy memories are held for me in this beautiful square mile of London. Happy Christmas everyone.

#christmas2021
#londonchristmas
#bondstreet
#piccadilly

Sunrise this morning 8am (no filter). #jackfrost

Sunrise this morning 8am (no filter).

#jackfrost
#wintersunrise

Just arrived in Gosport to collect some new bone c

Just arrived in Gosport to collect some new bone china from @rob.turnerchina and found I have to take a ferry to get there; so quaint. Remembering Mildred Natwick in Barefoot in the Park, and her resigned face when she’s told they’re taking the ferry to the restaurant on Staten Island in mid-February: “A ferry…🙄😕”

Today is lovely though.

#barefootinthepark

Enjoy a cosy night in. #rosemarysbaby #iralevin #

Enjoy a cosy night in.

#rosemarysbaby
#iralevin
#halloween2021

Remember strawberry Chewits? Hot pink sky gone in

Remember strawberry Chewits? Hot pink sky gone in ten minutes. Traffic jams on the river at 07.25 this morning. No filter.

#happytrees
#happylittleaccidents

Thank you Ophélie Renouard for the mention @lebal

Thank you Ophélie Renouard for the mention @lebal.paris .The delectable Ophélie has worked tirelessly since 1992 creating Le Bal des Débutantes: an homage to the English debutante balls where young women were introduced into society. It’s now just a good excuse for the rich and famous of the world to showcase their offspring in couture gowns. Many months of preparation goes into selecting the girls, dressing and photographing them and finding suitable young gentleman escorts. The evening itself is a whirlwind mixture of beauty pageant; fashion show; prom dance and an opening night – with a non-stop press call. The event raises heaps for charity and attracts socialites, politicians and fashion grandees alike: Anna Wintour donated her daughter the last time I was there (mother and daughter both wore Chanel).

The ball invitations are meticulously designed and this was my favourite illustration by René Gruau chosen for the 2003 ball.

In 2000 I dressed a baby-faced and timid Tamara Ecclestone in red silk zibeline. This was a particularly competitive year – it’s fair to say that Lauren Bush (niece of the president in waiting) in her huge vintage Dior gown rather stole the show.

Photography @thierry.chomel

#ophelierenouard
#renegruau
#tamaraecclestone
#mikimoto
#hoteldecrillon
#hautecouture

Reflecting on the excesses of lockdown. #beaujola

Reflecting on the excesses of lockdown.

#beaujolais
#cotswoldscreamliqueur
#lockdown
#may2021
#fatbastard

Hadn’t heard of #internationalcatday until yeste

Hadn’t heard of #internationalcatday until yesterday but this is a great excuse to tell Thomas the cat’s previous folks: Paul @p.bastock how happy he is and how much he is loved. After his first month indoors he went out and caught a mouse within two minutes. Sociable, vocal and always hungry, Tom is such good company and he has constant attention as the house is never empty. Can’t believe it’s been nearly three years…

#catsofinstagram

Happy 63rd birthday Kate Bush @katebushmusic . I w

Happy 63rd birthday Kate Bush @katebushmusic . I was 16 when I queued at Virgin Megastore Oxford Street to meet this tiny little lady and have her new album signed. I asked her about the lyrics to The Kick Inside - was it all about incest? ‘Yes’ she smiled broadly. Seems bizarre now that anyone could pull up that day for a quick word with this now reclusive genius.

#katebush
#thedreaming
#muchloved
#1982

Happy 76th Birthday @HelenMirren. Have loved this

Happy 76th Birthday @HelenMirren. Have loved this actress since I was fifteen. Such a pleasure dressing her several times. Here in a froth of mocha-cappuccino silk satin and chiffon by yours truly. Styling @rachelfanconi brooch to order @andrewrtprince

#helenmirren
#neilcunninghamdress
#cappuccino
#couture
#satindress
#rachelfanconi
#andrewprince

Not a film set today, just shielding the kitchen w

Not a film set today, just shielding the kitchen windows from 32° sun with equipment to hand.

#ifyoucantstandtheheatgetoutofthekitchen

Happy Anniversary to my ‘little’ sister Susie

Happy Anniversary to my ‘little’ sister Susie and her hubby Richard. The pair met at Keble College and returned to marry in the chapel in 2008. Handy having a couturier brother to design for you but Suze had always loved the shape of an Audrey gown in the 1956 film War and Peace. Taking the silhouette as inspiration we chose a corded Italian lace with a strong weft weave reminiscent of a garter stitch to reflect Susie’s love of knitting. By cutting the skirt on the bias we were able to lift the dress from a plain ol’ princess line into something more contemporary with chevron stripes.

Oyster/blush is always my favourite shade for a bride but Susie’s pale complexion demanded it. Shorter sharp hairstyles are also tricky to dress for weddings so we just created a cloud of tulle to frame her signature dark red bob and a Billie Holiday style gardenia (rose) finished the look without fuss. Could never think of a good name for the colour of the tulle - we just called it wee-wee.

#keblecollegeoxford
#keblecollegechapel
#oxford
#englishwedding
#neilcunninghamdress
#bride
#blush
#blushweddingdress
#chevronstripes
#cordedlace
#knitter
#audreyhepburn
#warandpeace1956
#empireline
#madeinlondon
#madeinengland

Happy anniversary to past client Justine @vocabula

Happy anniversary to past client Justine @vocabulary_of_style who wore this oyster duchesse satin overlaid with sequinned chantilly lace gown for her Claridges wedding nineteen years ago (yesterday). Justine, I’ve emailed you the other scan you wanted x

I rarely post bridal stuff but when the photography is by @sheila_rock_photographer ...

#neilcunninghamdress
#sheila_rock_photographer
#brides

I bought this book 30 years ago (it’s the one th

I bought this book 30 years ago (it’s the one that the Netflix series is based on). A friend searching for this title lamented that it’s now rare and pricey. Ebay UK bids currently at £300 for the hardback and a few days ago Amazon wanted over £1,200 for the same.

On Sunday night I managed to find a copy on a well known international online bookshop specialising in rare and out-of-print books: £18 plus p&p to the UK (£50) – bargain! A nice gift for my friend I thought. Order confirmed and money taken from my bank account.

Too good to be true. The following day I was contacted by the book company to tell me there’d been a mistake - quelle surprise! The book was no longer available and they had reimbursed me. Computer stock error or just bad sports?!

#halston
#halstonnetflix
#simplyhalston
#stevengainesauthor
#stevengaines
#outofprint

I couldn’t let you finish your photo guide of re

I couldn’t let you finish your photo guide of retro cars of Muswell Hill @nigelmortonphotography without showing you this local fixture from 1990 to 2010: mine!

My 1957 Polar Silver Deluxe VW Beetle left-hand drive, was my pride and joy. I bought the car when I was 22 and used it as my primary transport for as long as was practical. @carol_m_lister - I drove BillyBoy* @billyboymdvaniiofficial @mdvaniiism all the way from London to Herefordshire in 1990 (to meet an eccentric doll collector) in what must have been the most bone-rattling journey of his life.

Sold the car in 2013 to a wonderful lady collector who also provides VW camper vans for weddings and funeral services, particularly for young deaths: surfer types etc when a big black hearse would just be too grim.

Not as perfect as yours @shane.chivers.14

This photo is #1989 and we’re in the #peakdistrict

#vw
#vwbeetle
#vwoval
#vwlove
#vwpolarsilver
#polarsilver

Beaton, Blenheim, Barbra, booked! #cecilbeaton

Beaton, Blenheim, Barbra, booked!

#cecilbeaton
#cecilbeatonportraits
#blenheimpalace
#onacleardayyoucanseeforever
#barbrastreisand

My five-year-old nephew was very taken with Prince

My five-year-old nephew was very taken with Prince Philip’s funeral last week and recreated the scene from his toy box. Only one guard unfortunately and an open casket (stretcher).

#princephilip
#princephilipfuneral
#landrover
#landoverdefender
#playmobilfigures
#playmobil

6.30am iPhone weather for Oxford: Haze, 5° #pink

6.30am iPhone weather for Oxford: Haze, 5°

#pinkskyinthemorning
#thames
#oxfordrowing
#blush

Broken blossom! Lame snow photo but what a shock t

Broken blossom! Lame snow photo but what a shock this morning (07.55) after the Florentine blue skies and welcome sunshine of yesterday afternoon. Look how the spring colours are fighting back though.

#endoflockdown
#alfrescodining
#brokenblossom
#thames

The rowers return. Happy students but bewildered d

The rowers return. Happy students but bewildered ducks and swans who’ve had the river to themselves this past year. They don’t know what’s hit them; sometimes literally.

#happymonday
#kayak
#iffleylock
#thames

This week’s Ebay spoils. Not sure how long this

This week’s Ebay spoils.
Not sure how long this straight talking bombast would last in today’s cancel culture.

#jamesrobertsonjustice
#sirlancelotspratt
#doctorinthehouse
#doctoratlarge
#doctorinlove
#doctorindistress
#doctorinclover
#doctorintrouble
#hero

Green shoots in my old stomping ground this aftern

Green shoots in my old stomping ground this afternoon. Pleasantly surprised to find that #fortnumandmason is deemed a necessity during lockdown. Took full advantage!

#piccadillycircus

Crazy Oxford students Harvey and pal @guy_herring

Crazy Oxford students Harvey and pal @guy_herring and braving the Thames at 7am this morning.

#earlymorningswim
#oxfordstudents
#riverthames

Bye bye Barbara Ann Deeks

Bye bye Barbara Ann Deeks

Finally did it: Fanny Cradock’s Royal mincemeat

Finally did it: Fanny Cradock’s Royal mincemeat omelette (currently to be seen on BBC iPlayer and Youtube). Wasn’t sure whether to eat this for breakfast lunch or dinner - we plumped for tea. The fast melting sweet icing sugar mixed with the egg creates a taste similar to creme caramel or custard tart - not unpleasant - but the overwhelming texture of scrambled egg/omelette (no crunch of pastry or biscuit) is unsettling.

#fannycradock #fannycraddock #fannycradockforchristmas #royalmincemeat #mincemeatomelette

Happy holidays everyone - have the best week possi

Happy holidays everyone - have the best week possible!

#tracyisland

The wonderful photographer @LaurieLewisphotography

The wonderful photographer @LaurieLewisphotography posted this yesterday. It’s one of my favourite pictures, (certainly of my dresses) and so I can’t help regramming it.

#DarceyBussell amidst the newly regilded angels atop the #AlbertMemorial 1998 to promote the restoration by #EnglishHeritage , the #RoyalBallet and #FashionWeekLondon simultaneously. Looking up at the monument now it’s hard to believe we ascended 200ft (by lift and scaffolding) to achieve this little masterpiece; perhaps my queasy face says it all.

Said the photographer:

The ballerina had recently danced at the Albert Hall 200’ below, now in the arms of a gilded angel and glowing in a Neil Cunningham dress, she balanced motionless for a portrait destined for tomorrow’s newspaper.

What a strange commission … it was the idea of English Heritage to publicise the elaborate restoration of the Albert Memorial, to be unveiled by HRH Queen Elizabeth in a formal ceremony at night, with all the customary pomp and spectacle, plus a firework finale.

I photographed @darceybussellofficial debut in The Prince of the Pagodas, and all the dance up until her retirement from the Royal Ballet, onstage, backstage and in the studios, the challenge as always was to catch fleeting moments in subdued light. With a subject lying in repose, bathed in a strong soft light, albeit way up in the sky, it was by comparison, a gift.

Featured from the book ‘Portraits’ @unicornpubgroup © Laurie Lewis 2020

#laurielewisphotography
#neilcunninghamdress
#red

This #BritishVogue from December 2001 was in produ

This #BritishVogue from December 2001 was in production as the Twin Towers came tumbling down in September, diminishing creative spirits to say the least. I’m sure I remember hearing that Linda Evangelista couldn’t face boarding a plane to London to be photographed for this issue. Was delighted that my empire line gown of lilac silk organza was part of this fabulous story: ‘A Right Royal Do’ by the irreplaceable @LucindaChambers photographed by #MarioTestino . The #KateMoss photo by #Nick_Knight would later be nominated by PPA for the cover of the century. Thank you @pjcalder for the reminder.

#neilcunninghamdress
#vogue
#couture
#lilactime

Minnie Mouse is 92 years old today and my Minnie M

Minnie Mouse is 92 years old today and my Minnie Mouse dress is 21! Modelled (right) by @ingridwallinartist photographed by @garthaikens styled by @bryonytoogood for @Cosmopolitan_de for a #babydolldress story.

#minniemouse
#neilcunninghamdress
#garthaikens
#cosmopolitangermany
#bryonytoogood
#babydoll

Trains running as normal but carriages are virtual

Trains running as normal but carriages are virtually empty and stations are clean and glossy. It’s a rather civilised way to travel.

Frosty garden, river of fire – or perhaps just t

Frosty garden, river of fire – or perhaps just the hot breath of university rowers who don’t believe in social distancing! What a divided world we are this morning.

#thamestowpath
#thamesriver
#aroomwithaview
#nofilter

It’s always Halloween in this house with a maste

It’s always Halloween in this house with a masterpiece by @GlennBrownOfficial smiling down at us. Discovered this incredible artist 16 years ago at his Serpentine Galley exhibition and bought this limited edition print. I had to a sign a form that forbade me from selling it on Ebay. As if.

#glennbrown
#halloween

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